How to Install Engineered Hardwood

Materials Needed:

• Engineered hardwood flooring planks
• Moisture barrier (if underlayment does not include)
• Underlayment 
• Floor Spacers (¼ inch)
• Transition strips (for doorways/adjoining rooms)

Tools Needed:

• Utility knife
• Tapping block
• Pull bar
• Saw (jigsaw or hand saw)
• Hammer
• Pencil
• Tape measure
• Chalk Line

1.) Prepare the Subfloor

• Ensure the subfloor is clean, level, and free from debris.

• Install a moisture barrier over the subfloor, overlapping seams by 6 inches.

• Roll out the underlayment and attach to the moisture barrier, leaving a ½ – ¾ inch gap from the walls, butting the edges together without overlapping.

• Use a utility knife to trim the underlayment to fit the room.

2.) Lay the First Row

• Begin in a corner, placing spacers against the walls to maintain the expansion gap.

• Lay the first row of planks with the groove side facing the wall.

• Apply tongue and groove adhesive onto each plank (if recommended by manufacturer) and interlock the planks

• Use the tapping block and hammer to gently lock the grooved ends of the planks together.

• Ensure the planks are properly aligned and fully engaged.

3.) Stagger the Planks

• Start the second row with a plank cut to a different length than the first

• Stagger the end joints by at least 6 inches for a more appealing look.

4.) Cut the Planks to Fit

• Use a saw to cut the last planks in each row to fit against the wall, leaving the expansion gap.

• Use the pull bar to align the plank with the previous row

5.) Install Transition Strips

• At doorways and adjoining rooms, install transition strips to allow for expansion and create a seamless transition.

6.) Finishing Touches

• Remove all spacers once the installation is complete.

• Install baseboards or quarter-round moldings to cover the expansion gaps along the walls.

Materials Needed:

• Engineered hardwood flooring planks
• Moisture barrier (if underlayment does not include)
• Underlayment
• Hardwood flooring adhesive (manufacturer recommended)
• Trowel (notched trowel size recommended by adhesive manufacturer)
• Spacers

Tools Needed:

• Utility knife
• Tapping block
• Pull bar
• Saw (jigsaw or hand saw)
• Tape measure
• Roller (100-150 pounds)
• Chalk line

1.) Prepare the Subfloor

• Ensure the subfloor is clean, level, and free from debris.

• Install a moisture barrier over the subfloor, overlapping seams by 6 inches.

• Roll out the underlayment and attach to the moisture barrier, leaving a ½ – ¾ inch gap from the walls, butting the edges together without overlapping.

• Use a utility knife to trim the underlayment to fit the room.

2.) Plan the Layout and Apply Adhesive

• Use chalk lines to mark two perpendicular lines on the subfloor, representing the starting lines for the installation.

• Use the recommended trowel to spread a workable amount of adhesive evenly onto the subfloor, cover about two rows at a time.

• Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions for trowel size and adhesive open time.

3.) Lay the First Row

• Begin laying the engineered planks along a corner of the room, pressing them firmly into the adhesive.

• Use spacers to maintain the expansion gap (usually 1/4 inch) between the planks and the walls.

4.) Cut Planks to Fit

• Use a saw to cut the last planks in each row to fit against the wall, leaving space for the expansion gap.

5.) Stagger the Planks

• Start the second row with the cut plank.

• Stagger the end joints by at least 6 inches for a more appealing look.

6.) Lock the Planks Together

• Use the tapping block and hammer to gently lock the grooved ends of the planks together.

• Ensure the planks are properly aligned and fully engaged.

7.) Lock the Planks Together

• Once all sections are installed, use a clean trowel or knife to remove any adhesive from the surface of the planks.

• Roll the installed section with a 100-150 lb roller to ensure proper adhesive transfer.

8.) Finishing Touches

• Remove all spacers once the installation is complete.

• Install baseboards or quarter-round moldings to cover the expansion gaps along the walls.

Materials Needed:

• Engineered hardwood flooring planks
• Moisture barrier 
• Underlayment (if recommended by manufacturer)
• Pneumatic nails or cleats (size recommended by flooring manufacturer)
• Wood Putty
• Spacers

Tools Needed:

• Pneumatic nail gun
• Compressor and hose
• Tapping block
• Pull bar
• Utility knife
• Pencil
• Tape measure
• Pry bar
• Chalk

1.) Prepare the Subfloor

• Ensure the subfloor is clean, level, and free from debris.

• Install a moisture barrier over the subfloor, overlapping seams by 6 inches.

• If recommended, install underlayment over the moisture barrier.

2.) Plan the Layout and Lay the First Row

• Use chalk lines to mark two perpendicular lines on the subfloor, representing the starting lines for the installation.

• Use spacers to maintain the expansion gap (usually 1/4 inch) between the planks and the walls.

• Begin by laying the engineered planks along the chalk line, with the tongue side facing the wall.

• Use the pneumatic nail gun to blind-nail the planks through the tongue at an angle.

3.) Lay the First Row

• Begin laying the engineered planks along a corner of the room, pressing them firmly into the adhesive.

• Use spacers to maintain the expansion gap (usually 1/4 inch) between the planks and the walls.

4.) Cut Planks to Fit

• Use a saw to cut the last planks in each row to fit against the wall, leaving space for the expansion gap (usually 1/4 inch).

5.) Stagger the Planks

• Start the second row with the cut plank.

• Stagger the end joints by at least 6 inches for a more appealing look.

6.) Lock the Planks Together

• Use the tapping block and hammer to gently lock the grooved ends of the planks together.

• Once locked, use the pneumatic nail gun to blind-nail through the tongue at an angle.

7.) Nailing the Final Rows

• For the final few rows, you may need to use a pry bar to engage the tongue-and-groove joints.

• Nail through the top of the plank at an angle, close to the wall, and fill the nail holes with putty.

8.) Finishing Touches

• Remove all spacers once the installation is complete.

• Install baseboards or quarter-round moldings to cover the expansion gaps along the walls.